Prague, Final Days, Part 2

I said goodbye to Donica this morning at 5:45 am - and promptly went back to sleep until 9. When I went down to breakfast, I didn't really have an agenda for the day, but my hostess gave me some ideas that sounded good. They involved walking and taking the tram up to a monastery above Prague Castle, close to where we were yesterday. Apparently, in the gardens, there was a set of fun-house type mirrors in a maze, or maybe a labyrinth. I'm not quite clear, because I never actually found it. But I had a good time trying.

First, a walk back across Charles Bridge with its many statues

I visited the library of the monastery, which was full of very old and beautiful books, including some illuminated manuscripts. It also had a natural history section, which included boxes of butterflies, dried sea animals, elephant trunks, and lots of other oddities. No pictures allowed.

I walked across the way to an even odder spot - the Museum of Miniatures, which was about 30 exhibits, none bigger than an inch and some much smaller. Here is a very tiny Matisse:


and a tiny picture of Jesus drawn on a poppy seed:


There was also an ant with a tiny padlock and key, made of gold, attached to one of its legs, a human hair with a tiny little train set attached, and a number of other amazingly strange creations. Unfortunately I happened into this tiny museum in the middle of two tour groups, one Russian, I think, and one Czech, so my enjoyment was tempered by the 90 degree temperatures inside, the long lines, and the shouting of the tour guides about how they needed to hurry along. Still - curious and amazing.

Done with museums for a while, I headed down the hill in search of the mirror thing, and quickly got lost. I studied this sign and tried to make a good plan, but to no avail. At least I had the company of fellow walkers, and it was a lovely day with pretty paths. The views of Prague alone were worth the wandering.


I found my way up the hill and stopped for refreshment. I'd been listening on and off all day to an Agatha Christie novel on my ipod that promised an astounding twist at the end. At this point, I was beginning to suspect that I knew what the big twist would be, and I was kind of disappointed to have figured it out. Still, it was nice company.


My final stop was the Loreta Church, home of several important relics, including (supposedly) a timber from Mary's actual house and a little bell-ringing show at each hour. Every door was marked with the epiphany blessing, which oddly made me feel at home.

I caught the tram back to my pension, which has been a great place to stay: very central in this extremely walkable city. In our room was even an explanation of the centuries of history of the house, including luminaries who have lived here and a regretful explanation that due to the historical nature of the house, no elevator was allowed.


After a quick nap, I got ready for a very special event. I'd found out a few days earlier that a not-so-anonymous benefactor had kindly made a reservation for me at one of the nicest restaurants in Prague. It was only a 5 minute walk from my place, and my table was right near a window overlooking the river, the Charles bridge, and the castle beyond.


What followed was one of the best meals I've ever had - certainly in the top five. The food was creative, delicious, well-prepared and happily served by a very kind waiter named Tomas. (And actually, considering the quality, an extremely good deal!) I ate what he recommended and didn't regret it - here's a shot of my chocolate mousse dessert with mint sorbet and raspberry sauce:


I gave Tomas a generous tip (by Euro standards - normal for us Americans), and headed back to the Old Town Square for my own little goodbye to Prague and to vacation. I caught one of the last elevators up to the top of the town hall tower, circled the viewing area enjoying all the now-familiar landmarks, and was just in time for the hourly clock chiming and trumpet song:



Perfect.

It's funny, as I was walking to dinner I was passed by a young couple - one on each side of me, who then came back together and joined hands as they continued down the street. I watched and realized the temptation to be lonely was always there, but I didn't feel it - for one thing, I've had great travel partners, both on this trip and in the past few years. And even when I am alone while traveling, I'm happy to be there. I'm aware of the relative luxury it is to travel at all, and I try to enjoy every part of it. At dinner, I had brought my book, but I was content to savor my meal, drink wine, and gaze out the window. (And, I admit, eavesdrop on the interesting conversations around me, I can't help it.) Now, as I stay up too late and pack, I'm happy to be coming home to see family and friends and start a new school year in a few weeks. And finally, I'm thankful for you - blog readers, those who comment and those who don't. Thanks for reading and keeping me company along the way!

Prague, Final Days, Part 1

Yesterday was Donica's last day, and we had yet to conquer Prague Castle. After a bit of wandering around town (I took several pictures of my favorite architectural details around Old Town), we crossed Charles Bridge and headed for the castle complex. Most people agree that it's the largest castle in the world.

On the Charles Bridge

Not so welcoming entrance to the Prague Castle

Once inside the complex, we bought a ticket for the "short tour" which included the old palace, another family palace, a basilica, and of course the cathedral which was free. My favorite windows in the cathedral are the fairly modern ones by the much-celebrated Czech artist Alfons Mucha:



Then, on recommendation from my "friend" Rick, I toured the Lobkowicz palace, which is just down the hill from the castle. Donica took the opportunity to head into the Toy and Barbie Museum, which kind of creeped her out - it's full of decades-old dolls and toys, some of with are a little scary. Gretchen and I went there last time I was in Prague, so I went to the palace instead.

The Lobkowicz family has a compelling story - one of the original noble Czech families, they lived in exile throughout WWII, escaping with their lives while the Nazis confiscated their properties, land, and belongings. They had a brief reprieve when they returned before the communists again took all of their things, and finally in 1989/1990 were able to return and file complicated claims with the new Czech state in order to retrieve what was theirs. Entrance to the museum comes with a free audio guide narrated by the current head of the family, who eschews his rightful title of "prince" and actually sounded quite down to earth. Well, as down to earth as you can be when describing this centuries-old painting of a family member and member of the Spanish royalty as follows: "Notice the ring on her pinky finger? My mother still wears this beautiful piece on special occasions".

That was impressive indeed, but a few rooms later was, at least for me, the Holy Grail. In a room full of antique instruments, including the "Lobkowicz Amati" violin, was a case full of musical manuscripts. Here's Mozart's handwritten re-orchestration of Handels' Messiah for a concert funded by the Lobkowicz count of the day:


And, some of you may have heard the story of how Beethoven got mad at Napoleon and decided to change his dedication on the Eroica (3rd Symphony). Who did he change it to? Joseph Franz Maximilian Lobkowicz, his enthusiastic patron, to whom he also dedicated his 5th Symphony, and some other works. Sitting in the case were first editions and some of the original Beethoven manuscripts...I wasn't supposed to, and I got scolded, but I couldn't help but take a picture.


Happy but tired, I met up with Donica again and we trudged down to the river, crossed the bridge, and headed to our final meal together and "home".