On the Charles Bridge
Not so welcoming entrance to the Prague CastleOnce inside the complex, we bought a ticket for the "short tour" which included the old palace, another family palace, a basilica, and of course the cathedral which was free. My favorite windows in the cathedral are the fairly modern ones by the much-celebrated Czech artist Alfons Mucha:
Then, on recommendation from my "friend" Rick, I toured the Lobkowicz palace, which is just down the hill from the castle. Donica took the opportunity to head into the Toy and Barbie Museum, which kind of creeped her out - it's full of decades-old dolls and toys, some of with are a little scary. Gretchen and I went there last time I was in Prague, so I went to the palace instead.
The Lobkowicz family has a compelling story - one of the original noble Czech families, they lived in exile throughout WWII, escaping with their lives while the Nazis confiscated their properties, land, and belongings. They had a brief reprieve when they returned before the communists again took all of their things, and finally in 1989/1990 were able to return and file complicated claims with the new Czech state in order to retrieve what was theirs. Entrance to the museum comes with a free audio guide narrated by the current head of the family, who eschews his rightful title of "prince" and actually sounded quite down to earth. Well, as down to earth as you can be when describing this centuries-old painting of a family member and member of the Spanish royalty as follows: "Notice the ring on her pinky finger? My mother still wears this beautiful piece on special occasions".
That was impressive indeed, but a few rooms later was, at least for me, the Holy Grail. In a room full of antique instruments, including the "Lobkowicz Amati" violin, was a case full of musical manuscripts. Here's Mozart's handwritten re-orchestration of Handels' Messiah for a concert funded by the Lobkowicz count of the day:
And, some of you may have heard the story of how Beethoven got mad at Napoleon and decided to change his dedication on the Eroica (3rd Symphony). Who did he change it to? Joseph Franz Maximilian Lobkowicz, his enthusiastic patron, to whom he also dedicated his 5th Symphony, and some other works. Sitting in the case were first editions and some of the original Beethoven manuscripts...I wasn't supposed to, and I got scolded, but I couldn't help but take a picture.
Happy but tired, I met up with Donica again and we trudged down to the river, crossed the bridge, and headed to our final meal together and "home".
Then, on recommendation from my "friend" Rick, I toured the Lobkowicz palace, which is just down the hill from the castle. Donica took the opportunity to head into the Toy and Barbie Museum, which kind of creeped her out - it's full of decades-old dolls and toys, some of with are a little scary. Gretchen and I went there last time I was in Prague, so I went to the palace instead.
The Lobkowicz family has a compelling story - one of the original noble Czech families, they lived in exile throughout WWII, escaping with their lives while the Nazis confiscated their properties, land, and belongings. They had a brief reprieve when they returned before the communists again took all of their things, and finally in 1989/1990 were able to return and file complicated claims with the new Czech state in order to retrieve what was theirs. Entrance to the museum comes with a free audio guide narrated by the current head of the family, who eschews his rightful title of "prince" and actually sounded quite down to earth. Well, as down to earth as you can be when describing this centuries-old painting of a family member and member of the Spanish royalty as follows: "Notice the ring on her pinky finger? My mother still wears this beautiful piece on special occasions".
That was impressive indeed, but a few rooms later was, at least for me, the Holy Grail. In a room full of antique instruments, including the "Lobkowicz Amati" violin, was a case full of musical manuscripts. Here's Mozart's handwritten re-orchestration of Handels' Messiah for a concert funded by the Lobkowicz count of the day:
And, some of you may have heard the story of how Beethoven got mad at Napoleon and decided to change his dedication on the Eroica (3rd Symphony). Who did he change it to? Joseph Franz Maximilian Lobkowicz, his enthusiastic patron, to whom he also dedicated his 5th Symphony, and some other works. Sitting in the case were first editions and some of the original Beethoven manuscripts...I wasn't supposed to, and I got scolded, but I couldn't help but take a picture.
Happy but tired, I met up with Donica again and we trudged down to the river, crossed the bridge, and headed to our final meal together and "home".
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