First, a little update from our last night in Krakow. We were exhausted in many ways after we returned from Auschwitz - it was over an hour in the mini bus on the way back, and then a walk back from the bus station to our hotel. We bought a few souvenirs we'd had our eye on since the first day, and then headed to a recommendation we'd read about for our last meal.
The restaurant's name translated to something like "Honey and Raspberry", it was adorable inside, and we were immediately charmed. I was even more charmed (and charming, I'm sure), after we tried their cranberry raspberry vodka:

We had a funny exchange with our young waitress about what to order. We knew we wanted pierogi, and there was a pierogi combo plate on the menu that said it served two. Yet our waitress seemed surprised when we started to order it and a salad to share. She suggested we get a half order. We were really hungry, but we agreed. Then we tried to order a half order of their meat platter, thinking that would be a good, well-rounded meal. She suggested again we start with our half order of pierogi and then see if we were still hungry. We finally just agreed and figured she knew what she was talking about. Well, she did. We were happy, and full, with what we got:


We ate and drank happily, and made sure to leave enough room for dessert. Panna cotta with raspberry sauce for Erin I., "traditional apple pancake" for me. Our best meal in Poland, and one of our best on the trip so far. And, adding to our delight, the cost for two vodkas, salad, pierogi, and two desserts, was $40.


Another funny money moment happened the next morning when we were trying to check out and head to the airport. For some reason, I had it in my head that it should have cost around 110 Euro per night. We had lots of euros but no more zlotys, so we wanted to pay in Euros. The very kind Polish man did a conversion calculation and showed us 600 zlotys - about 150 euros. We were confused, but resigned...and we each gave him 150 euros. He did the calculation again. We didn't know what the problem was...until finally he explained that it was 600 zlotys TOTAL. We were trying to pay twice as much. Silly American girls. I thanked him for being so honest, since he could have just taken all that cash and been done with us. He smiled and insisted on helping take our luggage down the stairs. We definitely have a recommendation for a place to stay if any of you ever go to Krakow!
Just a few hours later, we were happily ensconced in Erin I's friend B's flat here in Berlin. In fact, happily is too weak - delighted, amazed, and grateful would be closer. After two weeks of figuring out with maps and guidebooks how to get to our hotels from airports and train stations, having B pick us up at the airport, drive us to her place, and know that we could settle in and relax for a few days was a very welcome change.

Those of you who know about my love for a show on HGTV called House Hunters International will understand when I say that being here feels to me like being on an episode of the show...in fact I've seen an episode with a couple looking at a place just like B's: "Charming, newly renovated flat in an exciting, developing neighborhood in the former East Berlin. Close to shops, U-Bahn, and restaurants yet quiet and peaceful...top floor with two terraces"...and so on.
For dinner, B took us to her favorite middle eastern restaurant, where we began with a DELICIOUS drink called a radler, which is beer mixed with lemonade:
And Erin and I shared a large amount of food, which we had no trouble at all finishing off.

Apparently there's a saying here that if you finish your plate, there will be good weather the next day. Things didn't quite work out that way for us, since today involved 90+ degree heat and lots of walking, sweating, and other fun details...but more on that next time!

4 comments:
what a lovely flat!
Time for another Polish currency story: Was driving from Germany to Krakow with my parents and brother on vacation in 1993. Came around curve and was flagged down by policeman. Much trepidation by non-Polish-speaking Americans in recently communist country. But the policeman spoke broken English: "Too fast. Pay fine. Three million zlotys." Three million?! Quick calculation: Oh, that's only $20. (I take it from your story that they've revalued since then.) We paid in cash, got a receipt. Policeman points to his radar gun proudly: "Made in America!"
Been enjoying your travels. Peace,
--R
catching up on your blog after several days away - beer with lemonade is what my german family ordered for me whenever we went out the summer i was a 16-year-old, since i was a non-drinker (at the time) - they told me it's what they order for children there :)
catching up on your blog after several days away - beer with lemonade is what my german family ordered for me whenever we went out the summer i was a 16-year-old, since i was a non-drinker (at the time) - they told me it's what they order for children there :)
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