A Funny Thing Happened on the Way Home from the Beach...

(note: for the purposes of this post, Lo's comments will be in parentheses throughout)

So, today was another lovely day on Naxos.

We woke up, headed into "town" for our morning spanakopita from the best bakery on the island. (and followed it with a chocolate-filled doughnut, still warm!)

Then, we embarked on our newly-hatched plan to rent motorbikes to get around the island for the next few days. I must admit, I was nervous. My two worst fears: having the guy at the rental place tell me I had no idea what I was doing and I couldn't rent after all, and secondly, somehow dumping the bike and skidding across the pavement. (I was just thinking, "I have to exude the fact that I know what I'm doing, even though I don't really remember how to do this).

We filled out all the paperwork, were pleased as punch with the price - 18 euro for three days - and Lo got on her bike and put putted away down the street. I got on. I promptly moved my hand the wrong way to give it gas, and the guy sighed and said, "You don't know what you're doing at all. Please, please, if you're not comfortable, come back and rent a 4 wheeler". I assured him I would be just fine, and quickly headed away. (Meanwhile, I've turned right at the police station and am waiting, wondering if already something really bad has happened).

I found Lo at the Po-Po corner as we were instructed to go to head out toward the beaches, and we were soon on the open road. Ah, so nice. Wind in our faces, passing poor folks who were walking all the way there, and at the end of the ride, this:

Aggia Anna beach

(SpyCam also accompanied us on the journey, and literally caught someone with their pants down!)
(Now honestly...why is this person concerned about tan lines there? Give me a break.)

So there we were, two happy girls on the beach, reading our books, dipping occasionally into the surprisingly frigid sea....
...and then we decided to pack up and head to explore a castle that was listed on our map, what with our new transportation and all. Now, our map from the rental place had THICK red lines and THIN red lines. I assumed that this meant real big roads and just regular ones. However, it became clear that thin red line = dirt road. I headed out ahead with the map, undaunted, with Lo in my rear view mirror. The road was fine...just dusty. (Real dusty behind someone else, and she was haulin') Then the road became very potholed. Then it got better. Then we passed a few more beautiful beaches. But I was thinking about that castle. Then the road got really really sandy. I tried to find a good spot....I slipped to the left, then I slipped to the right...then I got that feeling you get when you know you can no longer avoid disaster. I fell, the bike skidded, I skidded along with it...and then all was quiet. (It was real scary to watch).

But then I popped up, aware that my right side had several very stinging parts, Lo asked if I was OK, I said don't get too close, I don't want to bleed on you. (I asked if she wanted water to clean up. She said "Let's just go back home". I said OK. She popped back on and led the way.)

I was determined not to cry. I didn't either, until I got into the shower at our room, the stinging water hit the stinging parts....and then later when Lo helpfully put hydrogen peroxide on them, since that's all we had. Well anyway, here's the picture:
And now it's much later, and I do feel better, though achy and a bit like I was in a car crash. Which Lo reminded me I sort of was. But it could have been much worse. (Of course it could have been better too). But Lo brought me some guaze, and ointment, and ice cream, which helped lots. So did this:
So all is (mostly) well. We even used the bikes again later that day, and in the proper style, with helmets on our heads, not like the Greeks with helmets slung casually on their elbows. Tomorrow, no more dirt roads, mom, I promise.

Of Cats and Bougainvillea

We have settled into our new digs here on Naxos island quite well. We even took a little video:

Our pension, Pension Irene II, is named after Irene, our very own Greek ya ya (g'ma) who presses figs upon us and shows us by demonstration how we can sit out on our balcony and have coffee if we like. We are surrounded there by several Scandinavian travels, a few Brits, and some French...no other Americans in sight.

Today we rolled into downtown about 11 for breakfast at what Lonely Planet promised to be the best bakery on the island...and it was. The best spanakopita we've had so far. (Note to self: must add dill when I make it at home just like all the Greeks do and not be lazy when I can't find fresh dill easily at the grocery store). We ate overlooking the harbor, this was our view:

Then we strolled slowly through town; the Venetians were in control here in the Aegean once upon a time, and had a sort of walled city within a city up at the top of town. Here are some photos from the stroll: On our way home, we happened upon a DVD store and bought two more videos...cheap entertainment for the evenings since we tend not to go out and hit the night club circuit. We have now added Batman Begins and School of Rock to our growing collection. We've stopped to blog on the way to dinner...haven't decided yet whether to do our usual takeout gyros or actually sit down at a restaurant....and I must say I'm not looking forward to days when where to eat dinner is not my biggest decision of the day...ah, vacation. <>

Bonus Blog: Answering Reader's FAQ

Hey there everyone!

We are on the sunny-but-not-swelteringly hot isle of Naxos, also in the Aegean. We've decided to set up camp here for four or five more days, and are enjoying the settled feeling that gives. Pictures and regular travel news to come...but first, since several of you have asked, here's a little update on our travel style/experience so far.

Overall: Great! From my (erin's) point of view, this vacation has been much less scheduled than any of my others, though I've realized as we jaunt about that Greece just doesn't lend itself to the style of travel that I've done in the past. (For example, there would have been no way to schedule this whole island part from the states....there are no authoritative ferry schedules on the internet, and most places we've stayed don't have websites, etc.)

Yes, there was a moment at the Reed's house before we left when we realized that one of us never travels with sleeping bags and sheets and the other always does...but I think we've found pretty cheap places that still provide us with all the essentials, so that's been good. Plus also, Loretta has a huge appreciation for air con., so she's been very happy that all our places have had that. (Of course, in Thessaloniki it barely worked, in keeping with our entire experience there...)

Lo watches bemusedly as I "settle" whenever we arrive at our room. (Gretchen and Deanna, I'm sure you remember that routine). I like to feel at home. She is always the first one packed and ready to go when it's time to leave, and patiently waits while I finish fussing with whatever I'm doing to be ready. She also has ideas that I would never have about what to do next (for example, we abandoned our entire itinerary up in Thessaloniki about going to an island up near there, took the fast train back to Athens, and started from scratch - all her idea), but I think it's safe to say that I've been pretty game and flexible as our plans change. I just asked her if this was true and she agreed, phew.

All of the comings and goings and flying by the seat of our pants have still made for a very relaxing vacation so far. I just wish I was winning more at cribbage. :)

Another lazy day...

the pattern appears to be: wake up, stroll around the bend along the water’s edge to choose a bakery for our morning spanakopita. (Today’s was especially good). Then we head to the beach for our dip in the sea. Today was sort of windy and sandy, so we packed up after a bit and headed for the little pool. Lots of cribbage today…current score is Lo 13, Erin 8. (I’m trying hard to keep my hopes up for an eventual overall win, but at one point when I was down 11 to 4 it was real hard.)

dad, perhaps only you will appreciate how good her hand is here...

After our afternoon nap, we headed back downtown today for a light snack. You see, we’ve been trying to get on the Greek eating schedule, which seems to consist of the following: coffee and cigarette around 10, some sort of lunch at some point, and then dinner around 9 or 10. The problem is, we’re hungry when we wake up, and then hungry again at around noon or 1, and then my goodness, how can we wait for dinner until 10? So we intended to have a snack of Greek salad at around 7 and get real dinner later…but then we ordered fried zucchini too…and then we had a big burger treat for dessert…

so it was basically dinner. Now it’s 9:30 and we’re in for the night. So much for being Greek. J

Here's our hotel in Andros:

Some sights and sounds of the trip so far:

*Kids being held in the front of their parents on mopeds, going crazy with the horn. (Kids also seem to be held in the front seat of cars, whether or not there is a car seat in the back)

*Chain smokers everywhere here…at one point our bus driver was both smoking and talking on his cell phone while he drove.

*Every day here on Andros there is a big truck full of huge pots and plants that drives by saying some stuff on a loudspeaker…seems like an interesting way to do business.

*The local destroyer out in the harbor here keeps changing its position every few minutes or so..we cannot figure out its purpose but hope that all is well.

*Old men walk by in the evening and say “Kalispera”(Good Evening) in a low, growly, but friendly tone.

*Lots of tiny bathing suits, on men and women, old and young alike.

*There is a bird family by our pool: mom, dad, complete with a nest of many teeny little ones. We watched them go crazy when a local cat prowled by.

*Fishermen working on their nets in the afternoon…on little boats with a dog on each one keeping watch.

*We watched over the last three days a group of guys on some very sketchy-looking scaffolding put a stone facing on a building. We couldn’t believe that A) they were hammering away at stones in 100+ degree heat, and B) how beautiful the wall looked when it was done.

*We have a favorite shop keeper here: when be bought a beach umbrella from her that had a problem with one of the parts, I brought it back and she ran and got a working part from her own umbrella to give to us. Super nice.

* (Lo here) Here was our inn keeper and the Hotel Chrissti Akti...

..Erin said that he was "handsome in a Sean Connery sort of way." He's the one on the left, in case you couldn't recognize the "Sean" in him.

Tomorrow we head out on another ferry to another island, not quite sure which one yet! More from wherever we end up!

spy cam

the spy-cam was such a hit and what with everyone clamoring for more, I've put my own safety aside for you, the faithful readers

here's a priest spreading some peace (note fingers), perhaps it's peace to the Lord or (gasp!), did he see spy cam?

shady character w/ gold chains and a beater, i pretty sure he's trying to sell his old cellphone to this unsuspecting bus worker.

the oft-seen but henceforth not captured nun on cellphone...can you name the city?
here's one of many horrendous fountains, fearing that anyone would think I actually wanted a pic I put spy cam on the job.
going along with the "is that actually for real?" this dress...and shoes is the real thing, fo shizzle.
CAUGHT! In the act, clearly posted was sign that was in Greek, but it almost surely said don't put yourself in the fountain, yet a tourist was sighted and snapped, thanks spy cam.

In the islands at last....

andros at its best

this is actually "our beach," the rig and warship aren't the prettiest, but the water feels great and is crystal clear

Hello friends...greetings from Andros, a lovely Greek island in the Aegean Sea. It is still over 100 degrees, but right now we are cool and sitting in the one internet cafe on the island. We had to take a bus to get here from our hotel, wait outside for an hour and a half, but finally here we are again on the blog. :)

First, a few words about how we got here:

We traveled to Thessaloniki after Meteora. Now, I don't like to say bad things about places that I travel to...after all, I'm a tourist in and out in a few days; how could I really judge a place? But let's just say that our activities in Thessaloniki included buying a DVD of My Big Fat Greek Wedding and watching it our hotel room...sleeping...struggling through the incredibly stifling city on a self-guided walking tour...and then sleeping some more until we could get the train out. Here are a few pictures:

there I am, locked out of a 3rd century church that we had just watched a man get admitted to...and here is the Roman agora, under excavation since 1973...we especially liked the lovely apartment buildings surrounding the whole thing.

This church, modeled after Hagia Sofia in Istanbul, had some real, real, old frescoes and mosaics. These are from the 8th century:

So...we left Thessaloniki in the morning, and traveled twelve hours yesterday to get here...via our feet, the train, taxi, bus, ferry, another bus...and finally found ourselves at a lovely beachside hotel at a little harbor town. We grabbed our usual dinner and dessert (gyros and ice cream, PLUS a beer this time, all for 12 euro total), and headed for bed. Today was a lazy day at the beach, and then the pool...and we plan the same for tomorrow. :)


Hey, see below for new pics added from the monastery hike!

God bless the Dutch!

Greetings from Meteora!

We are in a little town at the base of these incredible rock cliffs, and perched atop them are various (very old) monasteries. But more about that in a bit...first a quick summary of our travel day yesterday.

It involved:
-3 buses
-3 games of cribbage while waiting in a hot, smoky bus station, all of which Lo won handily. Luckily my perfect blend of competitive yet gracious spirit made the games fun still. :)
-hours of staring at not very nice scenery through the bus windows...
-and all in temperatures hovering around 100 degrees. (Thank goodness the AC on the buses mostly worked well.)

When we finally tumbled off the bus around 4 pm here in Kalambaka, we were very focused on finding a swimming pool. And we did...after getting slightly sketchy directions from our hotel proprietor, and walking a few km. As we approached, we heard loud music, and thought someone was listening to it in their house. Nope! The pool was actually a club, with bumping music that could be heard far and wide. And, it was full of Greeks smoking, drinking, swimming, and thoroughly enjoying the atmoshpere. Not another American in sight. But, we hopped in, swam a bit, read our Homer, and enjoyed being cool for the first time that day. (Picture to come as soon as we can find a place that will let us upload them...)


As for today...hiking to these monasteries was something we both had been anticipating as a highlight of this trip. We were not to be put off by the weather, although I must admit that as I looked up at the sheer rock faces I was inwardly a bit dismayed. Loretta forged ahead, we decided to hike through the mountain trails instead of on the asphalt road...which was mostly great. Butterflies floated by, we saw two tortoises trucking along, and the scenery was really beautiful. But oh...so...hot.

the first tortoise, the second one i actually heard rustling in the brush to our right and got a little nervous, i put my arm back and stepped back and said "what's that?" i learned that loud leaves rustling and no apparent movement from that direction probably doesn't mean threat, but tortoise

Erin on the hike...we weren't there yet
Lo on the hike (re-enactment actually), but this was after and I was still pretty enthusiastic, except for passing this very SKETCHY looking cat, I thought it might be feral, Erin graciously offered to go first.

My memories of this hike will always include looking ahead at Lo, looking up at the clifftop monasteries, and wondering how on earth we were going to get there...but we finally did.

this lovely depiction of a young priest taking the stairs and an older guy taking the ramp, this sign was where the two paths split at St. Nicholas' Monestery the orginal, I know you're all wondering where it could be is actually inside St. Nick's.
This icon may look familiar to those who read sharon's blog, it's st. nick.
this is about 2 km into our hike (actually more like 4 b/c someone (me...loretta) led us out of town the wrong way...oops, well it's only 44 out. I'm pointing to St. Nick's Monastery.

We even made it to two of them, peeked inside at all of the amazing icons from centuries past, rested, and then decided to try for public transporation back to town. No such luck, though...buses were done for the day (at 3:00!), and we were too cheap to call a taxi. I was marshalling my last reserves for the hour+ hike back down when a couple nearby who had overheard our transport discussion said, "You going down? We'll take you."

Friends, words cannot express our delight at this ride...neither of us could stop smiling or thanking them...they were a lovely Dutch couple, driving around Europe in their camper van, and they were funny and kind...the woman even offered us a lemon drop once we got in the car. They drove past their campsite and brought us straight to our hotel. As we waved good bye I may even have called them angels. And, by the way, the thermometer in their van said 44 celsius. That's 111. Phew!

The view from the road into the valley.
One of the monasteries.

Tomorrow, off to Thessaloniki on the 7:42 train!